CommedesGarçonsRTW2019 spring

She has a place. But where?

Rei Kawakubo is at a creative crossroads. The designer told us in a statement that it was a variety of declarations that were sent by e-mail before her Saturday show. A woman usually makes conversations on her runway. This is an extraordinary letter. Most of us think her confidence, her work, and her art are unwavering.

Kawakubo wrote before ten seasons that she changed the direction of her Commedes Garçons show to see how much she could “making strong clothes, even to the point where the clothes became abstract.” She has decided that this method does not Then the new one: “I am looking for the next step, what is the next step. But I can’t find it.”

This program is about Kawakubo’s search, whether it is creative or female. Therefore, it feels very personal. In the “Somewhere” of the “West Side Story” of the soundtrack, the first model appeared, her abdomen looked pregnant, and her black wire jumpsuit was cut with a horizontal zigzag to show her abdomen. She and all models wore white hair on a messy working day ponytail, indicating that the burden of being a woman and a creator is lifelong and hard. You must constantly create and find your location somewhere.

The theme of pregnancy continues until the baby’s buttocks become globular protrusions on the hips and back, clearly mentioning Kawakubo’s groundbreaking collection of the spring of 1997, until now, the liner has broken through the “skin” underneath the clothes exposed – tight Clothing logo, floral “tattoo” and newsprint. In this context, the logo on Kawakubo’s beautiful Nike sneakers is not registered as a merchandiser, but as a self-declaration, Kawakubo asserts, “My creation is like me.”

All of this is very exciting and has some special points of influence. Halfway through, two model chains appeared – women’s sha?? Creative expression? expect? Imposing by yourself or outside? Near the end, in the soundtrack, Tom Waits’s “Tom Traubert’s Blues (Waltzing Mathilda)” suddenly stopped. “I begged you to stab me… you buried the dagger.”

Understatement, this is not the case. Kawakubo wrote in her e-mail that “promoting when groping in the dark” is a risk. However, she chose to exhibit at Écoledes Beaux-Arts’PalaisdesÉtudes, which was installed under a wide skylight on a bright white runway. It happens to be a beautiful blue sky. There is hope.

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